Showing posts with label ASTAP. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ASTAP. Show all posts

Monday, March 3, 2025

TILT!

Yes, it's that enemy of flat fields: tilt in the optical train. 

Recall -- or don't, since I'm going to repeat the information anyway -- that my first choice for imaging the Polaris-area integrated flux nebulae was an old Tamron 135 mm f/2.5 lens that stopped down to f/4 is quite a nice lens. Second choice is to use my FSQ-106 with a 0.73X focal reducer that gives me a nice wide field. The FSQ is wildly higher in quality than the Tamron, but the only time I've imaged with the focal reducer it produced results that barely adequate: stars were noticeably elongated on one side of the image. 

I'll need to use the FSQ + focal reducer if for some reason the Tamron proves to be problematic. That means it's time to chase down the tilt problem and get it fixed.

What dawned on me recently was that there was enough back focus to allow me to use the tilt plate that came with the ASI 2600 camera I use for imaging. I had removed the plate to make the ASI compatible with my DSLR. The fact is that the ASI has largely made the DSLR superfluous; I'm  unlikely to image with it again. The tilt plate can therefore come out of storage and get back into action. Here's the present situation:

The configuration of interest here is the bottommost one. The reducer requires that the camera sensor be at a very specific distance from it: 72.2 mm. Currently there's a 12 mm M42 spacer in the optical train. Replace that with the tilt plate and a 7 mm spacer and it's all good (aside from some very thin spacers). 

Now, how to use the tilt plate? Let's start by verifying that it's the optical train and not the sensor that's out of whack. To do that correctly, I'd need to rotate the camera relative to the optical train and see if the effects of the tilt moved with it. I'm going to cheat a little and assume that if the field is flat for the native imaging mode (f/5) the sensor is fine.

Here's the ASTAP measurement of tilt in a single luminance image taken with native mode (f/5):

ASTAP report of field flatness for FSQ-106 & ATI 2600

So you're probably asking, "what the heck is that?" The numbers next to the yellow lines are the area-averaged half flux diameter (HFD) of the stars. The HFDs essentially measure how pinpoint the stars are, and they can be affected by focus quality, seeing, and aberration and tilt problems. A perfect telescope with perfect optics and perfect seeing would have very small numbers in this diagram.

Tilt will introduce variations in HFD that are in the direction of tilt. So how does one assess these numbers? ASTAP does that for you. If you look along the bottom edge of the above picture you'll see it assesses the tilt at 6%, which it judges to be "almost none". Great! This suggests that the native optics are adequately tilt-less--and by extension that the sensor is reasonably perpendicular to the optical axis.

Now here's the ASTAP analysis for a luminance frame taken using the reducer (f/3.65):

Same as above, but with the focal reducer

ASTAP says the tilt is 19% (moderate). It also confirms my eyeball judgement that the tilt is largely oriented along the long axis of the sensor. 

(Yes, you could deal with some star elongation in post-processing, but isn't it better to not have to do that? This brings us back the the first defense against tilt, a tilt plate.)

The ZWO tilt plate works using three adjustment screws arranged in an equilateral triangle, much like the tilt screws for adjusting a small Newtonian objective mirror. What I'll do is to orient the plate so that one of the adjustment screws is in the direction of the tilt, like so:

Orientation of ZWO tilt plate: blue arrow = tilt direction, red dots = adjustment screws


This way the adjustment screw at that left vertex becomes the primary one to adjust. Note that ASTAP has an option to provide a 3-point analysis which may be easier to interpret in some cases.

The process of correction is basically repeating the sequence of imaging, analyzing, and adjusting. It's another new skill to learn and put to use, which is good. There doesn't seem to be much to it; I'll let you know how it goes.

Unfortunately this won't work for the 135 lens; it has no spacers to swap out for the tilt plate. Should I find it needs correction, I'll probably use these things. I might get that and see if it's all I need for correcting the focal reducer tilt, too. If these shims work for that it would eliminate the need for a tilt plate and make it easier to change from one configuration to another. 

-------------------------

At least it's March now. A few inches of snow is coming in the next day or so, just because it can. Almost time to make my reservations at Lac qui Parle!

[Added 5 March, it was more like 9 inches.]




Wednesday, July 29, 2020

APT + Stellarium Imaging Workflow

I came across an excellent video last week by Matt's Astrophotograpy. Matt's setup and choices for software are much like mine but his experience is vastly greater so I took a lot of notes.

I'm going to post those notes here and alter them as I do more imaging.


Software

Please consult each software's documentation to determine how it is to be configured.

Imaging Control: Astro Photography Tool

Once upon a time I used ImagesPlus camera control, then moved to BYEOS when I switched to a DSLR. My first impression of APT was that it was a mare's nest of capabilities and was too tangled to tame. I tried to like SGP, but the way it functioned seemed counter intuitive. I found NINA interesting but had to give it up when I found it didn't support my SBIG CCD or the QSI I was hoping to buy. Maybe by the time I buy that QSI it will be supported. So I sat down and started learning APT!

Be sure to install version 3.84 or later so you get ASTAP support (see next section).

Plate Solving:

I think you really only need to install ASTAP and its G17 star database. ASTAP seems superior for both near and blind solving compared to the old standards, PS2 and ASPS. And please don't tell me about AstroTortilla. Not to diminish the role it had in bringing plate solving to the masses, I always found it to be slow and unreliable.

Guiding: PHD2

Obviously.

Planetarium: Stellarium

This is a personal preference thing. I like Stellarium; it's pretty and it does what I need. This workflow will make use of Stellarium.

You may want to install version 20.1 instead of 20.2, as the latter requires you to manually connect to the mount.

Stellarium tip: The config.ini file lets you configure Stellarium's defaults. Here are two examples...
Turn off full screen mode, look in the [video] block, and set fullscreen = false
Turn off daytime sky brightness, look in the [landscape] block and set flag_atmosphere = false.

Slewing/Parking/PEC:

Slewing in RA is needed for Polemaster, which will want you to slew your mount several times. This can be done conveniently from within an ASCOM control panel or by using a hand control.


If you would rather slew entirely from within APT, do this:
Start with the mount at counterweight down (CWD) orientation and the RA axis pointed at Polaris. Connect APT to the mount. Copy the values of current RA & Dec to the GoTo fields. To do the requested rotation, usually just subtract one hour from the RA and click the GoTo button. (If the stars turn in the opposite sense of the PoleMaster display arrow, add instead of subtract.) Repeat for the second rotation.

To return to the start orientation, undo the RA changes in one step. DO NOT use the APT park button!


Setup & Initializing


Assemble

Start by assembling the components of your imaging system. This includes making all the data and power cable connections.

If your system is portable, this means rough-aligning your mount to north and balancing it for imaging.

When ready, power it all up: Laptop, Gemini II, imaging camera, dew heaters.
Make the data connection to your laptop. (In my case the data connection must be made after power-up because it could damage the SBIG camera if made too soon.)

Start APT and optional Camera Cooling

Steps marked with an asterisk are required even if not using the cooling aid.

*Launch APT
*APT/Camera / Connect
APT/Camera /Cooling Aid. Check settings and start.
*APT: Tools / ATP Settings / Main. Set image destination folder (optional)


Polar Align

(I use a PoleMaster for polar aligning. I agree with Matt 100%: PoleMaster is the way to do polar alignment.)
 
APT/Gear: Connect Scope (This launches an instance of the GeminiTelescope ASCOM driver.)
Attach PoleMaster to mount, connect USB
Launch PoleMaster software, and connect
Perform slews using one of these methods

ASCOM controller
  1. Find the Gemini ASCOM driver icon in the Windows tray area. Right click and choose Show Hand Controller
  2. Confirm Speed is "S" and that PEC is checked.
  3. Use the hand control RA buttons to perform slews
  4. When finished use the tray icon menu to close the hand controller. DO NOT minimize it!
APT
Use the add/subtract RA method described earlier

Disconnect and Remove PoleMaster


Sync

Launch Stellarium
Stellarium: If using version 20.2, manually connect the mount (use the telescope control plugin)
Stellarium: left click a suitable sync star, then use CTRL-1 to go to it
APT/Gear: Open Pointcraft
APT/Camera. Verify that exposure time is appropriate (I use 10s with my ccd and L filter)
APT: Shoot
APT/Pointcraft: "<< Scope Pos" to populate approx. position fields
APT/Pointcraft: Solve
APT/Pointcraft: (assuming solve is successful) Sync
Stellarium: Should now show true position of scope. Use CTRL-1 to center star in FOV
APT: Shoot new image to confirm star is now reasonably centered. If it is not, use Pointcraft Aim as described later and then Sync again


Focus

Please refer to APT documentation to learn how to best use the focus aids. I use a Bahtinov mask whenever possible.

APT/Gear/Filter Wheel/Go To Filter: Select filter to focus
APT/Camera/Bulb Seconds: Set appropriate exposure time
Attach Bahtinov mask
Shoot single images or use Live View. If Live View is used, possibly disable Live View Automation (APT:Tools/APT Settings/Main/Live View Automation) to prevent binning
APT/Tools/Bahtinov Aid: Make sure focal length, aperture, and pixel size are correct; turn on Cross mode
Drag Aid window so that focus star is at crosshairs
Recalc as needed if not in Live View mode
Adjust focus until satisfied with focus
Close Bahtinov aid
Remove Bahtinov mask!


Acquire


Obtain and Compose Target

Obtain a Target Object

    Find target in Stellarium, CTRL-1 to it
    APT Pointcraft:  <<Scope Pos
    APT Shoot image
    APT Pointcraft Solve
    APT Pointcraft Aim, click on image to refine center if desired
    APT Pointcraft GoTo++
    When completed you are good to go.
   
Go To Specified Coordinates

    APT Gear Enter coordinates into Center FOV boxes
    APT Pointcraft GoTo++
    When completed you are good to go.

Resume an Old Session

    Find target in Stellarium, CTRL-1 to it
    Open image from previous session
    APT Pointcraft Solve
    APT Pointcraft << Solved
    APT Pointcraft GoTo++
    When completed you are good to go.


Autoguiding

Launch PHD2
Toolbar Connect Icon or simply CTRL-C, connect guide camera and mount
Main Menu/Tools/auto-select star or simply ALT-S
Click SHIFT-toolbar Guide button to calibrate
Let PHD settle
APT/Gear/Guide to connect to PHD2 and configure optional dithering


Acquisition

APT/Camera Select Imaging Plan
APT/Camera Start


Shutdown

APT/Camera/Warming Aid: Warm the camera slowly (optional)
APT/Gear/SHIFT-Guide to disconnect from PHD2
PHD2/Toolbar/Stop button
PHD2/Toolbar/Connections disconnect all
Close PHD2
Find the Gemini ASCOM driver icon in the Windows tray area. Right click and choose Show Hand Controller
ASCOM Hand Control/Park (optional)
APT/Gear/Disconnect Scope
Tray ASCOM icon/Right click, Exit
When warming is complete, APT/Camera/Disconnect
close APT
close Stellarium
Turn off Laptop
Turn off Gemini II
Disconnect USB cables from any devices that may be harmed (Applies to my SBIG ST-8300M)
Disconnect all from power supply