M81 and 82 Revisited

A nice clear night and an opportunity to image from a friend's home north of the city lights produces a pretty picture:

 

This is based on 44 x 3m light frames with 15 dark frames, Canon T2i at ISO 800 on a TV-102 at f/7.

Power saving update: the software I talked about that turned off the laptop LCD display wouldn't keep it off. Apparently something about using ImagePlus kept turning the display back on. This wouldn't be a problem if a hand control was used to run the DSLR and images were stored on-camera.

Battery Update: I ran the laptop (fully charged), dew prevention, mount and camera from the 35Ah battery for four hours; loaded voltage fell from 12.7 (unloaded, 13V)  to 11.8V. Unfortunately I popped the battery onto the charger as soon as I got home and didn't check its final unloaded voltage.

Assuming it was 12.1V it would have been at 50% capacity, meaning it would have supplied about 17Ah or about 4Ah per hour. This is about right if I take into account that the old laptop battery was in place and it could run the laptop for maybe two hours, after which the 35Ah battery was supplying 6A to both run the laptop and recharge its battery.

That's a whole lot of assumptions and guesses, though, so it doesn't mean much. I may end up rewiring the battery box to include an ammeter so that I can monitor power use more rigorously.

A Battery Box Addition

The Battery Box got one refinement over the last couple of weeks: A built-in 7.5VDC power supply.

I had intended to use an external supply, but the little Drok unit gets good reviews and is much smaller than the adjustable supply I had planned to use. It was perfect for mounting within the box. All it needed was an output plug. For that I went with the same sort of plug used on many mounts, a lockable panel-mount socket and plug. (Both were purchased on eBay.)

Drok 12VDC to 7.5VDC step-down converter

5.5x2.1mm socket and plug

A built-in converter presents two problems if it's left connected to a battery: A continual power drain (0.1 to 0.12W) and possible interaction with a smart charger. The drain doesn't sound like much, but it equals about 7Ah per month; that's a lot for a 35Ah battery. To prevent these problems I isolated the converter using a rocker SPST switch. As a reminder to turn off the converter when it's not needed I added a tiny LED that draws a minuscule 3mA. Here's the switch and LED:

Switch and indicator light

As I said, it's a tiny LED! It's just bright enough to let you know that the converter is active.

12V sockets (above) and new 7.5V socket (below).

I made an extension patch cord that fits the plug and the power cord from the camera's dummy battery; this will permit me to use other power supplies.

One other add-on is intended to make this easier to use: An accessory cable for my charger that will let it charge through one of the sockets. Because this is a small battery it can be charged at a relatively low amperage of 1.1A. While I haven't yet recharged it from a state of deep discharge, I'm hoping that it will remain cool during charging even when left in the box. It's my hope to never need to remove the cover.

NEXT UP: It's the Messier Marathon, April 8 or 9! I plan on imaging some Messier galaxies as a part of the Arp galaxy imaging project. There are six Messier/Arp galaxies I haven't imaged yet: 49, 60, 65, 66, 77, 87, and 90. Only 77 is badly placed; it will set too soon for imaging. Because it's a marathon night, I'll shoot only luminance with my ST-8300M, and probably only an hour apiece at most using my TV102. Last year the MM had only so-so skies. Here in Minnesota we're overdue for some good Messier luck.

Box your Battery

Tired of lugging a heavy battery around by its carrying strap? Inconvenienced by connecting to it using alligator clamps? Messed up by dew getting the battery all wet? Make a battery box!

It's simpler than you might think and you can make it as fancy as you want. Here's my rather minimalist box:

A Simple Battery Box

At the right side under the lid protuberance designed to allow dew to run off are two 12V sockets. I may add a couple more on the far side. Each is individually fused so that if one device blows the rest keep working.
 

The voltmeter springs into action

The only other thing I added was an LED voltmeter that's actuated by a momentary-on push button. This helps me monitor the battery's state of charge.

Under the hood

The 35Ah battery (group U1) is dwarfed by the box, which is designed to handle batteries in groups 24-31. I've used rigid foam to hold it in place. I haven't done a deep recharge of the battery yet, so I don't know how warm it will get. I suspect it won't get warm at all--My charger is only 1.1A. With an accessory the charger can charge the battery though one of the sockets

What you'll need:

• The box: The one I used comes with a useful divider and can be used with a  battery that provides 75Ah and still have room for the sockets
• Sockets are found on eBay for about $6 each. I used waterproof ones that come with their own cables and fuses. I bought the kind that attach with a locking ring; they've been solid in use.
• The voltmeter (about $4) is also from eBay, waterproof, and also attaches with a ring.
• Connecting wire. If you run your own wire to the sockets, be sure to use 14AWG or heavier wire, and check that the fuses are appropriate for the wire and devices you plan to connect. Wire to the voltmeter can be much lighter as it will carry only a tiny current.
• Tools: The only helpful tool you may not have is a variable drill bit that will help make the socket and meter holes. You don't need one as large as the holes--it can be used the start the hole and ream it to proper size.

What you don't need:

• Battery terminals for jumper cables. This should be a deep-cycle battery, and it doesn't like jump starting. 
• A carrying strap. The box comes with handholds at either end. A 35Ah battery and box weighs under 25 pounds, so it's easy to carry.

As you can see from the above picture a U1-sized battery leaves a lot of room for accessorizing. An amp meter could be useful to install if you want to measure battery drain. If you have the need for other voltages, add some step-down DC converters. They're small and very inexpensive. You should probably isolate them from any charger, perhaps with a two-way rocker switch. Go wild and add lights and a radio and you have one of the overpriced commercial "power tanks."

I'll be field testing this battery over the summer at a number of star parties, and may modify it as a result.

My battery box delivers twice the watt hours of a commercial "power tank," and costs less (about $125 total,  $100 of which is the battery and charger).