Monday, August 31, 2026

Evolution

I'm waiting for the next new moon. There isn't much to do aside from looking at the smoke plumes and wondering when they will go away. (September? October? November??)  A diversion is needed, so here it is....

Remember Ed Ting? Of course you do. Here's a video of his from this month; I've cued it up at the salient point for my post today but I think you'll enjoy by watching the entire video. (In the video Mr. Ting is giving his thoughts on what current astronomy opinion is or is not an overreaction.)

His mention of reprocessing some of his old data and seeing how much better it looks now inspired me to reprocess some of my own.

I'll start with an image from 2016 of the M81 / M82 field. The data for this was collected using a TV-102  telescope (focal length about 700 mm and f/6.9) and modified Canon 550d with a peak quantum efficiency of about 40%.   I collected 44 light frames of 3 minutes each,  15 dark frames, and no flats. Evidently ten years ago I didn't appreciate the importance of flat frames. Ten years ago I thought it was a nice image, so I posted it at AstroBin.

The 2016 processing used (the now gone) ImagesPlus and Photoshop with a couple of add-ons that existed back then; in 2026 the reprocess is all in PixInsight + a few addons including most notably the Xterminator triplets. 

I've placed the images in this post consecutively so that you can open one and then use your left/right cursor buttons to toggle back and forth between old and new. The images have been cropped and scaled to match each other fairly well. You can click any image to expand it to its unscaled resolution.

2016 Processing

2026 Processing

The first thing that hits me is how much better my modern color calibration is. In 2016 the image is plagued with an overall green hue and the background leans dark blue.

The 2016 image is full of walking noise, which is probably why I clipped the background. The 2026 version handles it better. Ideally I'd be dithering, but that was something I was still learning how to do back then.

For structure, let's look at the galaxies.

M81 - 2016 Processing

M81 - 2026 processing

M82 - 2016 Processing

M82 - 2026 Processing

M81 is substantially improved, both in terms of color and dynamic range. 

If you look closely, you can see the small dwarf galaxy Holmberg IX, at top center of the M81 frames. In the new processing you can see its two dark lanes and evidence of granularity. The dark lanes are barely there in the old image.

The improvement is more dramatic for M82, where some structure is visible for the hydrogen streamers now. 

I'm actually impressed with the data -- it wasn't half bad. In 2016 I was imaging on an original version CGEM and doing all the focusing manually.  With a DSLR I was weaving blocks of dark frames between bigger blocks of lights in order to better match temperatures; set point temperatures were for my CCD camera. And guiding used an old Orion guide camera. Today I can't even give that camera away! 

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So, the smoke is still going strong and new moon is only 11 days away. Oh well....



Wednesday, August 26, 2026

Finally, A Few Nights Under the Stars

August 19


The router I talked about in my last post worked well, and I should be able to monitor my imaging remotely from now on. Other things happened this night that made it less than successful.

Imaging started with NINA doing a slew, center and rotate, or trying to. I use NINA's manual rotator, which has always worked well for me in the past. This night it did not. My first rotation resulted in NINA requesting an even greater rotation in the same direction, and so did the next. I didn't want to sort it out, the image wasn't going to amount to much given the omnipresent overhead smoke, so I redid the sequencer script to just slew and center and pause so I could do a rotation by eyeball. Not at all optimal but it started the collection of light frames.

After a while I noticed that the images were showing fuzzy haloes around stars. It wasn't a focus issue; the stars were sharp. It was a very dewy night so that was my first guess. I put everything on pause and looked at the objective. It was dry. I could have examined all the other optical surfaces but instead I looked at the camera settings. The camera was at the correct temperature (-5 C) but the dew heater on the sensor window was off. I set it back on and decided to wait and see if it would clear; I could monitor this on my tablet indoors. The images slowly improved, but I was running out of time. I decided to call it a night and started breaking down the setup.

The next afternoon I found that there was a setting in the manual rotator that allowed me to reverse the sense of corrections. Having it set the wrong way would have produced exactly the symptoms I saw the night before, so I was confident that things would work next time. 

Both issues were probably a consequence of my having to restore NINA after a full lobotomy of my laptop earlier this year; the clean reinstall had put everything back to default settings.


August 20


So, two problems, both probably fixed, and a clear night. The moon was at first quarter and there was way too much overhead smoke, but I wanted to see if things were fixed so out I went to the club's Eagle Lake site. Everything worked and I decided to do a quick and dirty two-pane mosaic of the Veil Nebula. I had planned for a minimum of two hours, one for each pane, and started collecting light frames. The northern pane finished with 60 x 60 s frames, then the sequencer did its thing and went to the southern pane. 45 frames into that the clouds swept in and the night was over; the second pane got short-changed. 

An hour per pane was not really enough to for a decent image, but it did give me data to practice mosaic-making. Here is the result:

Veil Nebula 2-Pane Mosaic (1/2 scale, click to enlarge)

Comments:
  • This needs more time on target!
  • Shooting 60 s subs really helps preserve star color and allows essentially total eradication of satellite tracks, Yay!
  • I would like to thin out the stars better during the next reprocess.
  • About that lighter area to the right of the Western Veil: is it real or is it an artifact of how I flattened the field? It compares very well to this image in which it shows structure; there's also a discussion (and another excellent picture in RGB) of it on CloudyNights. Since the veil is often imaged using LP filters or in narrowband, most images might not show a dim broadband feature like this. I'm pleased that I'm able to draw it out with only an hour of imaging!
  • The image was calibrated using dark frames, flats, and flat darks. Lights were dithered, but not sufficiently for drizzling. I had about a half dozen runs at processing this before I found a good way to merge the panes. The workflow I found that worked best is given below.
  • Can you find the two seams? I can't despite knowing right where they are!
  • [Added 8/28/2026] Three separate cropping operations (see workflow below) reduced the mosaic down from its maximum possible size of 6248 x 7308 (taking into account the original 25% overlap) to 5980 x 7076. That's a loss of  7.9 percent in terms of area, or about 3.8% linear loss. Not too bad, but I'm glad I started with 25% overlap and had room to spare surrounding the Veil.


August 22


The night of the 21st was cloudy, but the 22nd was clear. The moon was now two days past first quarter, and there was still too much smoke aloft; the sky looked very bright. My first target (Sh2-114, the "Flying Dragon Nebula") was such a lost cause that I stopped collecting data early hoping to have enough time for a quick and dirty image of the Cocoon. I got 45 x 60 s of light frames: here's how that turned out:

Cocoon Nebula (1/2 scale, click to enlarge)

This would be gorgeous from a dark sky site with no moon, no smoke, and more time on target! There's a lot of entrained gas/dust around the dark lane that extends to the left, and it's only hinted at in my image.

One other glitch did arise this third night of four. The mount stopped unexpectedly well before it should have and signaled it had reached its safe limit. The next day I set it all up and made sure the mount had proper limits and was also correctly configured for meridian flips. I also made sure NINA was ready for flips, too. I'm going to attribute the glitch to the usual guilty party: operator error.

Verifying the change will need to wait for the next new moon, though. I'd also like to see if my setup can do a proper meridian flip.

Mosaic Workflow


This was all performed within PixInsight 1.9.4 build 1695, and I've provided most of my non-default settings for each process or script. PixInsight settings are meant to be explored, and you should find those that work best for your imaged objects and esthetics.

If you don't have the same scripts and processes installed as I use here, you will need to obtain them or find suitable substitutes. I also assume you have at least a rudimentary knowledge of PixelMath; there are two points at which PixelMath will come into play.

Calibration

WeightedBatchPreProcessing (WBPP) is used to do the calibration, and for these images I used the default settings. When it finished I had two master light frames, Pane1 and Pane2. I chose to have WBPP do autocropping even though it can insufficiently crop out edges with weak signal. By the way: I've now stopped using bias frames as part of calibration; they're mainly useful for scaling dark frames with mismatched temperature or exposure time, and I never have need to do that.

Linear Image Cleanup

Run BlurXterminator to take care of any aberrations. 

Use the ImageSolver script to solve the images.

The Veil field is packed full of stars to the extent that I considered using DynamicBackgroundExtraction to be iffy, so I used AutomaticBackgroundExtractor with degree set to 1 and subtraction as the correction. Why degree 1? This eliminates the mean and gets rid of the overabundance of green often seen in One-shot color masters along with the field-uniform light pollution. During relatively brief imaging sessions, the light pollution may also have a significant spatially linear component, so that's removed, too. 

Preparing and Merging Panes

I use star alignment to create registered panes ready for merging. There are other ways to do this, but it worked best for me for this particular data. This mainly entails creating an image full of synthetic stars that is larger than the eventual mosaic will be and then registering the panes to it.

I make a rough guess at the RA and DEC of the eventual mosaic's center. With only two panes it's easiest to just average the RA and DEC of the panes. I also guess the eventual size of the mosaic in pixels, and add some "elbow room" to make sure the panes will fit into it with room to spare. The center coordinates and estimated dimensions are used by CatalogStarGenerator; it produces a star map image named CatalogStars. If this image appears black to you, apply autostretch.

As noted above, the automatic crop feature of  WBPP sometimes leaves some data-poor edges uncropped. Use DynamicCrop to trim these off to help GradientMergeMosaic work better. Note that this destroys the previous solutions so we will need to re-solve as needed. 

The pane backgrounds must be matched, so use DNALinearFit. This can be obtained at David Ault's website, and more specifically here.

Use StarAlignment to register the panes (the correct settings are reference image = CatalogStars, Registration mode = Two-Dimensional Surface Splines, Radial basis function =  DDM Thin Plate Spline.) This results in two registered panes.

Next is more cropping! Use PixelMath's max like so: max(pane1,pane2) where pane1 and pane2 are the identifiers of the two registered panes. Remember to tell PixelMath that you want to create a new image, not overwrite one! This will produce a quick and dirty mosaic image. Use DynamicCrop to crop away all the black portions of the quick mosaic, then apply the crop to both registered panes. Save these newly cropped images.

Merge the newly cropped panes using GradientMergeMosaic with type of combination = overlay, Shrink radius = 1, Feather radius = 10, and Blackpoint = 0. If you see pinched stars, you can rerun it with an increased feather radius or you can black out offending stars. At this point you will have a linear mosaic image.

Traditional Single-Pane Linear Post Processing

At this point processing follows your usual workflow for a single linear image.

Do serious color calibration by using ImageSolver followed by SpectroPhotometricColorCalibration.

Do serious background extraction by running SpectroPhotometricFluxCalibration followed by MultiscaleGradientCorrection. I use MGC as it usually gives nice results.

Now you have a choice to continue post processing on the mosaic as it is, or to split it into starless and star images. I went with the latter by applying StarXterminator

You can do all sorts of things to the starless image; noise reduction and sharpening are probably the most important. I used NoiseXterminator and BlurXterminator (disable automatic PSF, set PSF to about 3 and sharpen nonstellar to 0.5). Apply and fiddle with the settings to taste. 

At this point I did see some mild star pinch effects in the starless image, but decided that they weren't worth correcting in this preliminary processing. If I had wanted to correct them I would have just gone back to the application of  GradientMergeMosaic and increased the setting for feather radius or blacked out some stars.

Because I was seeing some residual green in the star image, I applied  SubtractiveChromaticNoiseReduction to both the star and starless images. I did nothing else to the star image.

Stretching

Starless image: I used MultiscaleAdaptiveStretch with target background = 1.25 and scale separation = 256.

Stars image: the usual STF-HT method wildly overstretched the stars, so I used StarStretch with the stretch amount = 4 and color boost = 2. The stretch amount is where you can get very fiddly. It's worth exploring the entire stretch range of 4 to 6.

Combine Starless and Star images

Combine the nonlinear starless and star images with a PixelMath line ~((~$T)*(~stars)) where stars is the identifier of the stars image.

Final Tweaks

At this point you're free to do more noise reduction, adjust saturation, apply curves, get fiddly with dynamic range; it's up to you.

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Next time: imaging at the September new moon. Will it be clear? Will it be smoke-free? Will I be local or camped at Lac qui Parle state park? 



Tuesday, August 25, 2026

Setting up Remote Desktop on a Windows 10 Home Version Laptop

If you've ever camped at Minnesota's Lac qui Parle state park after mosquito season has begun, you know one thing for certain: the park has mosquitoes. Lots of them. Gnats, too. 

So while you're imaging it would be nice to be in a place of relatively safety; it's not fun having your blood simultaneously drained and replaced by several diseases. Some of you have RVs with doors the mosquitoes haven't yet learned how to open, so you're good. Me, I have my car, a 10x10 netted enclosure, and my sleeping tent. Not quite as comfy as an RV, but it serves.

Regardless of our particular camping style we need something that will let us talk to our gear from our safe places. In the past I've done this using a USB data cable (a tripping hazard and possibly unreliable). If there's a local wi-fi network available that's much preferred. The unfortunate truth is that, at the time I'm writing this, Lac qui Parle does not have any wi-fi at its campground I can tap into. Nor do the remote places where I like to image: the Nebraska and Iowa star parties, and a friend's semi-rural back yard.

The good news is that Chad over at Patriot Astronomy has a series of instructional videos for obtaining, configuring, and using a system that will act as a wi-fi network and enable you to use a mobile device to control your gear. Basically you connect your mount-attached minicomputer to a stand-alone wi-fi router, and then connect your mobile device to the router and remote desktop into the minicomputer. Easy-peasy.

But not if you're me: I have a couple of problems.

PROBLEM 1: Chad makes the reasonable assumption that I am using a Windows 11 minicomputer. Instead I have an old Windows 10 Home version laptop that sits on a table near my gear. Win 10 Home lacks the remote desktop feature that will be needed. My laptop is fine, and I really don't want to drop $600+ on a new one just now, so I'll need to find something to give me remote desktop access. This means finding software for the laptop and my Android devices.

PROBLEM 2: I don't have a standalone wi-fi router.  Chad recommends a GL.iNet GL-AR300M16-mini) that's mainly suitable for an area the size of hotel-room, which is fine if it can push signal though your RV's cabin wall or the distance to my tent. (GL.iNet also sells one that has dual antennae for a little better range. If you decide to buy the router Chad suggests, go to his YouTube video and use his Amazon link to make the purchase. That way he gets a little slice of the action.)

I solved problem 2 by rescuing my old ASUS RT-N12 D1 router from the family Goodwill donation pile. The ASUS is nice because it runs off 12 VDC using a standard power jack, only needs about 1.7 W, and provides 2.4 GHz wi-fi. That last bit is good because 2.4 provides better range. Despite being 2013 technology the ASUS was up to the task. You buy this router used on eBay for under $20.

I should add that technically the router can double its range if it sits halfway between my laptop and my safe area. It will just need a dedicated power supply like a small 12 V lithium battery. A single 7 Ah 12.8 V battery can power the ASUS for over 50 hours.

If it has a failing it's that it is not rated as waterproof. All its air vents are on the bottom, though, and I doubt a heavy dew will bother it.

The mighty ASUS RT-N12 D1 router

As for software, searching with Google AI mode is wonderful -- if you like having to pick between options. Word your question in different ways and you'll get different recommendations. When it came to remote desktop software for Win 10 it gave me a choice of titles, Real VNC, UltraVNC, NoMachine, and TightVNC. Let's take those in the order I tried them.

Real VNC. The "free" version turned out to be a 14 day trial that would require purchasing a plan to continue using -- making it a non-starter.

Ultra VNC. It was impossible to find the correct download link among all the ads for scams. It wasn't just me, their forum was loaded with similar complaints. I eventually clicked a bad link and had my browser hijacked by a phony shopping site. In other words, DO NOT USE Ultra VNC.

NoMachine. This one seemed promising at first. I installed it on my laptop and my Android tablet. This was said to be free for personal use but it insisted on my setting up a no-cost account with them in order for it to run. I created an account but regardless of how I tried to get it running it insisted that I enter a license key which I did not have. Google AI said this was a problem that was sometimes solved by creating a local user on Win 10, so I did that, and it did not help. At this point I'd wasted the better part of a day beating my head against NoMachine, so I said No to NoMachine.

TightVNC. This is open source so it doesn't keep trying to get you to sign up for a plan; it installed and ran simply. I wish I had started with it.

For the Android side, there were two suggestions, VNCViewer  and avnc. I could not find VNCViewer in the Android play store, but avnc was there; it installed and worked nicely. avnc is also open source.

Adding a stylus and small bluetooth keyboard gives me convenient and accurate input control. Configuring everything mainly involved setting up passwords for protection. Using built in password managers really helps!

What this means is that my laptop will now sit out by the telescope with the ASUS next to it. I will sit in my screened shelter, or maybe just nap in my tent. The only times I'll be out feeding the pests will be when polar aligning, a meridian flip is happening (must watch those cables!), or when the time comes for shooting flat frames. Hopefully when those last two happen it will cool enough that the bloodsuckers will have already called it a night.

On its first night in the field, the ASUS bridged the 140 feet and one outside wall to connect laptop to tablet; 20 feet from laptop to router, then another 120 to the tablet. 

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Trivia Time

I hope the name Ed Ting means something to you. Starting around 2000 he started reviewing telescopes...lots of telescopes! You can still read all his reviews here, and see more modern videos here. Many of us found his reviews quite educational. In my case his review of the INTES MK67, though short, influenced me just enough to buy one.  Alas, that's one of my "I wish I never sold it" scopes now. 

But that's not why I mention him. Did you know that he also solves New York Times crossword puzzles? And that he sometimes comments on them in Rex Parker's NYT Crossword Puzzle blog?